Conscious Guide: the men's tailored jacket
When we talk about men's clothing, there are some garments that we cannot help but mention: one of these is certainly. The epitome of elegance, class and finesse, this garment boasts a very ancient history: from the doublet of the late 17th century, to the Spanish marsina, the English tailcoat and frock coat, the history of the tailored jacket as we know and love it today has undergone many forms and evolutions, each one becoming a symbol of its time and cultural values. For this reason, the tailored jacket is not just a garment, but the result of a very rich process where symbols, functions and meanings have blended perfectly to give shape to something in which the modern man feels perfectly represented.
The smart and casual men's tailored jacket, how to choose it?
Although there are many types of men's jackets, and fashion, with its protagonists, proposes a variety of models that differ in colour and style each year, there is one rule everyone agrees on: the tailored jacket must fit perfectly. Perfect means not a centimetre more, or less... Not too loose nor too tight. Corneliani knows this and understands the difficulties that can arise when choosing a tailored jacket, so it has created a guide that focuses on the main points and elements to be learnt, so that everyone, not just our customers, can feel confident about choosing the highest expression of elegance and comfort.
The essential criteria for the perfect men's tailored jacket
When choosing a men’s tailored jacket, be it smart or casual, one must first consider its length, and the width of the shoulders. In the first case, the sleeve length of the tailored jacket must always be considered in relation to the sleeve length of theto be worn underneath it. The rule is therefore that the cuff of the shirt should not stick out more or less than about 1 cm from the sleeve of the tailored jacket, when the arm is outstretched. As far as the shoulders of the tailored jacket are concerned, they must be made wide enough to allow the sleeves to drop softly. The armholes must allow the arms maximum freedom of movement.
The collar or lapel of the men's tailored jacket
The collar of the tailored jacket is known as lapel, which literally means “small flap”. Historically, the lapel was referred to as an element of a garment that had been folded outwards, allowing the lining underneath to be seen. In the late 19th century, when coats were no longer buttoned up, they were worn with open lapels. The lapel then provided one of the few opportunities to adorn the garment. Today, the lapel of a tailored jacket is an extremely distinctive element of the garment, as they determine its style and the most suitable occasion on which to wear it. The three main types are:
- Classic or notched lapel: this is the most traditional and common type. Its corners are ideally shaped in a right-angle, pointing sideways, towards away from the chest. Versatile and discreet, the classic lapel is ideal for and officewear.
- Peak or 'pointed' lapels’: this is typical of the double-breasted tailored jacket, of such as the morning suit or tailcoat. Unlike the classic lapel, the peak lapel has almost no cran and its points are turned upwards, emphasising the width of the shoulders and chest.
- Shawl lapels: this type of lapel is certainly the most appropriate for important occasions and ceremonies. It is characterised by a rounded shape and the absence of the cran. In this case, the lapel is a single turned up element which starts at the neck and ends below the chest. The shawl lapel, harmonious and simple, is used almost exclusively for dinner jackets.
The cran of the men's tailored jacket, meaning and characteristics
When discussing the lapel, i.e. the collar of a tailored jacket, the French term cran cropped up. But what is it and how does it affect the design of a tailored jacket? The “cran” is the notch separating the collar of the tailored jacket from the lapel. In line with that explained above, it is clear that its shape depends on the lapel chosen, however, the most widespread and common type remains the 'fish mouth' cran, i.e. the most standard one, characterised by a width at less than a 90° angle and perfectly suited to made-to-measure jackets as well as standard size jackets.
The men's tailored jacket size, how to find yours?
Finally, to help you choose the ideal size for your men's tailored jacket, Corneliani provides you with this table showing the exact correspondence between size, height and bust.
|SIZE||HEIGHT (cm)||BUST (cm)|
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